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Ben Jacobs, co-owner of fast-casual Native American restaurant Tocabe, reworks his business model

Team is developing food for shipping nationwide

Bret Thorn, Senior Food Editor

July 24, 2020

3 Min Read
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Ben Jacobs and Matt Chandra had to rethink their entire business model when stay-at-home orders were issued in Colorado as the novel coronavirus pandemic arrived.

“Our goal was to do everything we could, at first, to stay open,” said Jacobs, co-owner of Denver-based Tocabe, a fast-casual restaurant focused on Native American food that has two units and a food truck. They tried to do deliver food themselves, they attempted a partnership with third-party delivery company DoorDash “because that was the point that they weren’t doing any commissions.” They also tried curbside pickup. But sales were still down by 85%

“We were still down so far, and we decided for people’s health and safety it was just not worth it,” Jacobs said.

So they closed on April 3 and didn’t reopen until June 3, when Paycheck Protection Plan money came through and they could hire back 14 of their 40 employees.

“Matt and I discussed what were our options, because neither of us saw the industry coming back to any normality anytime soon. And the thing that was really an additional kind of gut punch for us was we had just completed franchise documentation. We were working on some partnerships with some different tribal communities on doing some expansion through that. So that has all been set aside,” said Jacobs, who is a member of the Osage Nation in Oklahoma.

The restaurants are doing limited business, with 17 seats inside instead of 50, and 14 seats outside.

“Obviously it’s hard to make it with that,” Jacobs said, adding that they also suffer from lack of tourists, who would swing by their north Denver location on the way to the mountains.

“So our next evolution is we’re working on partnering with Native producers to do private label packaging for pantry staples — blue cornmeal, yellow cornmeal, wild rice, different variations of beans, plus our own proprietary dry rubs and barbecue sauce,” Jacobs said.

They’re doing research & development of oven-ready meals for sale in retail, which they hope to have up and running by the end of the year or early 2021.

“We had to get our entrepreneurial hats back on and reinvigorate our excitement of what we were going to do for our company to thrive,” Jacobs said. “And also we felt like we owe something not only to our community but also to the Native food producers, to find a way that we can all create a sustainable structure so we can continue moving forward.”

They’ve already shipped some of their bison ribs to family and friends for feedback. They’re cured, vacuum sealed and frozen with barbecue sauce — currently being made with seasonal huckleberries from the Muckleshoot nation of Washington State.

The ribs are Tocabe’s most popular menu item, followed by wild rice bowls — customizable in the assembly-line style of fast-casual restaurants. They’re figuring out the best way to ship those, whether refrigerated or frozen. Jacobs said they’ll probably be frozen so they can be sent to rural tribal communities.

They’re also working to figure out a model that allows customers to buy one meal for themselves and send one automatically to someone else, whether that’s a specific person in need or a food bank or other charity.

“The goal is to make the food accessible and get it to the people who need it,” he said. “We believe that it can be done, because we have a solid fan base not only locally but we do have that around the country from the native and non-native community alike.”

This is part of our Stories from the Front Lines series.

About the Author

Bret Thorn

Senior Food Editor, Nation's Restaurant News

Senior Food & Beverage Editor

Bret Thorn is senior food & beverage editor for Nation’s Restaurant News and Restaurant Hospitality for Informa’s Restaurants and Food Group, with responsibility for spotting and reporting on food and beverage trends across the country for both publications as well as guiding overall F&B coverage. 

He is the host of a podcast, In the Kitchen with Bret Thorn, which features interviews with chefs, food & beverage authorities and other experts in foodservice operations.

From 2005 to 2008 he also wrote the Kitchen Dish column for The New York Sun, covering restaurant openings and chefs’ career moves in New York City.

He joined Nation’s Restaurant News in 1999 after spending about five years in Thailand, where he wrote articles about business, banking and finance as well as restaurant reviews and food columns for Manager magazine and Asia Times newspaper. He joined Restaurant Hospitality’s staff in 2016 while retaining his position at NRN. 

A magna cum laude graduate of Tufts University in Medford, Mass., with a bachelor’s degree in history, and a member of Phi Beta Kappa, Thorn also studied traditional French cooking at Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine in Paris. He spent his junior year of college in China, studying Chinese language, history and culture for a semester each at Nanjing University and Beijing University. While in Beijing, he also worked for ABC News during the protests and ultimate crackdown in and around Tiananmen Square in 1989.

Thorn’s monthly column in Nation’s Restaurant News won the 2006 Jesse H. Neal National Business Journalism Award for best staff-written editorial or opinion column.

He served as president of the International Foodservice Editorial Council, or IFEC, in 2005.

Thorn wrote the entry on comfort food in the Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, 2nd edition, published in 2012. He also wrote a history of plated desserts for the Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets, published in 2015.

He was inducted into the Disciples d’Escoffier in 2014.

A Colorado native originally from Denver, Thorn lives in Brooklyn, N.Y.

Bret Thorn’s areas of expertise include food and beverage trends in restaurants, French cuisine, the cuisines of Asia in general and Thailand in particular, restaurant operations and service trends. 

Bret Thorn’s Experience: 

Nation’s Restaurant News, food & beverage editor, 1999-Present
New York Sun, columnist, 2005-2008 
Asia Times, sub editor, 1995-1997
Manager magazine, senior editor and restaurant critic, 1992-1997
ABC News, runner, May-July, 1989

Education:
Tufts University, BA in history, 1990
Peking University, studied Chinese language, spring, 1989
Nanjing University, studied Chinese language and culture, fall, 1988 
Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine, Cértificat Elémentaire, 1986

Email: [email protected]

Social Media:
LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/bret-thorn-468b663/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/bret.thorn.52
Twitter: @foodwriterdiary
Instagram: @foodwriterdiary

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