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At Fifty Three restaurant in New York City, the spirit-free cocktails get as much love as the full-proof ones

As many customers scale back on drinking, the Altamarea Group restaurant offers alternatives

Bret Thorn, Senior Food Editor

April 7, 2023

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Just because a customer doesn’t drink alcohol doesn’t mean they don’t want a festive drink, and it doesn’t mean they aren’t willing to pay for it. Having beverages that appeal to everyone makes all restaurant guests feel valued, and it improves profitability.

That’s one reason why Kelly Verardo, bar programs director for the Altamarea Group, has rolled out spirit-free cocktails at all nine of the restaurants she oversees, including the Morini and Nicoletta restaurants in New York City, Miami Beach, Washington, D.C., and Bernardsville, N.J., as well as Ai Fiori and Fifty Three in New York.

Fifty Three, a pan-Asian restaurant, has six spirit-free cocktails — a term Verardo prefers over “mocktails" — that make up around 25% of all beverage sales at the restaurant.

“They’ve been very popular,” Verardo said. “There’s a lot of people who come here for business dinners [and want to keep their wits about them] or maybe they just don’t drink.”

She said that more of her customers have stopped drinking Monday through Friday, “and sometimes you just need to take a day off.”

Also, with New York City being a melting pot, many of her customers come from non-drinking cultures, including the restaurant’s chef, Singaporean Muslim Akmal Anuar. 

Because people have different reasons for not drinking, the restaurants need to offer something non-alcoholic for everyone, whether it’s a pregnant woman who wants to have something that tastes boozy even though it’s not, like the Godai — a zero-proof take on an Old Fashioned — or a Club Razz, which is a spruced up mint iced tea that kids enjoy, as do people who come from cultures where they haven’t developed a taste for cocktails.

“You’ll see an eight-year-old drinking three of them,” Verardo said. “And if their parents want to pay for it it’s great for me. It’s better than a Sprite.”

All of the spirit-free cocktails are $16, a step down from the $24 or so charged for full-proof drinks, even though the ingredients aren’t necessarily cheaper. Fifty Three uses the same high-quality mixers in all of the drinks, and Verardo said the alcohol-free spirit substitutes wholesale for around $30, which is more than well alcohol.

She said Fifty Three sold around 600 zero-proof cocktails in January, which translates as $9,600, and that wasn’t because of the popularity this year of “Dry January,” when people abstain from drinking for the month.

“It pretty much stayed on par with where we normally are,” Verardo said of the sales. “I didn’t see as big of a spike as I thought I would.”

Take a look at the spirit-free cocktails on offer at Fifty Three.

Contact Bret Thorn at [email protected] 

About the Author

Bret Thorn

Senior Food Editor, Nation's Restaurant News

Senior Food & Beverage Editor

Bret Thorn is senior food & beverage editor for Nation’s Restaurant News and Restaurant Hospitality for Informa’s Restaurants and Food Group, with responsibility for spotting and reporting on food and beverage trends across the country for both publications as well as guiding overall F&B coverage. 

He is the host of a podcast, In the Kitchen with Bret Thorn, which features interviews with chefs, food & beverage authorities and other experts in foodservice operations.

From 2005 to 2008 he also wrote the Kitchen Dish column for The New York Sun, covering restaurant openings and chefs’ career moves in New York City.

He joined Nation’s Restaurant News in 1999 after spending about five years in Thailand, where he wrote articles about business, banking and finance as well as restaurant reviews and food columns for Manager magazine and Asia Times newspaper. He joined Restaurant Hospitality’s staff in 2016 while retaining his position at NRN. 

A magna cum laude graduate of Tufts University in Medford, Mass., with a bachelor’s degree in history, and a member of Phi Beta Kappa, Thorn also studied traditional French cooking at Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine in Paris. He spent his junior year of college in China, studying Chinese language, history and culture for a semester each at Nanjing University and Beijing University. While in Beijing, he also worked for ABC News during the protests and ultimate crackdown in and around Tiananmen Square in 1989.

Thorn’s monthly column in Nation’s Restaurant News won the 2006 Jesse H. Neal National Business Journalism Award for best staff-written editorial or opinion column.

He served as president of the International Foodservice Editorial Council, or IFEC, in 2005.

Thorn wrote the entry on comfort food in the Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, 2nd edition, published in 2012. He also wrote a history of plated desserts for the Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets, published in 2015.

He was inducted into the Disciples d’Escoffier in 2014.

A Colorado native originally from Denver, Thorn lives in Brooklyn, N.Y.

Bret Thorn’s areas of expertise include food and beverage trends in restaurants, French cuisine, the cuisines of Asia in general and Thailand in particular, restaurant operations and service trends. 

Bret Thorn’s Experience: 

Nation’s Restaurant News, food & beverage editor, 1999-Present
New York Sun, columnist, 2005-2008 
Asia Times, sub editor, 1995-1997
Manager magazine, senior editor and restaurant critic, 1992-1997
ABC News, runner, May-July, 1989

Education:
Tufts University, BA in history, 1990
Peking University, studied Chinese language, spring, 1989
Nanjing University, studied Chinese language and culture, fall, 1988 
Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine, Cértificat Elémentaire, 1986

Email: [email protected]

Social Media:
LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/bret-thorn-468b663/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/bret.thorn.52
Twitter: @foodwriterdiary
Instagram: @foodwriterdiary

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