Commander's Wild Side

By Ti Adelaide Martin and Tory McPhail
William Morrow, $29.95

Who better than the co-owner and executive chef of New Orleans' legendary Commander's Palace to show readers how to take fresh-from-nature provender and turn it into sophisticated restaurant fare. Most of the 100-plus recipes involve items Louisiana residents typically acquire by hunting, fishing or gathering themselves, but you don't have to follow suit. If you can score similar ingredients from your foodservice distributor and prepare them according to the directions Martin and McPhail give in their book, you'll be able to pep up your menu with quality fare in a big hurry. The side dish and dessert chapters are pretty wild, too, but get there by combining store-bought ingredients into provocative-tasting dishes. Many fine ideas in this one.