Sponsored By

British Invasion

April Bloomfield has New Yorkers queuing up for her version of comfort food.

Megan Rowe

March 1, 2010

5 Min Read
RestaurantHospitality logo in a gray background | RestaurantHospitality

April Bloomfield has managed a difficult trick with The Spotted Pig, converting even jaded New Yorkers into fans of British gastropub fare. Her take on traditional foods earned the restaurant a Michelin star shortly after opening in 2004, and since then a seat at one of her tables has been a hot commodity. The Brit recently teamed up with Spotted Pig partner Ken Friedman to open The Breslin, a nose-to-tail carnivore's mecca described in the New York Times as “Hogwarts for hipsters,“ in the Ace Hotel. We grabbed a few minutes with Bloomfield shortly after the debut.

RH: What's the most valuable lesson you've learned in your career so far?

Bloomfield: From the River Café (in London, where she spent four years): Always keep it simple, and let the ingredients shine for themselves.

RH: Describe one or two memorable meals in your life.

Bloomfield: One was a lunch at the River Café, before I started working there. One dish consisted of sardines, pine nuts and breadcrumbs. The sardines were beautifully moist, and the crunchy breadcrumbs really popped in the mouth. I also ordered a spicy arugula and mushroom tagliatele. It was perfectly cooked and the best thing I'd ever eaten. Here in New York, I've been to Eleven Madison Park a few times, and each time it's been an amazing meal — very crisp, clean and precise. Daniel Humm is a great chef, and he seems very humble and down to earth. And it's a great room.

RH: What do you frown upon in the kitchen?

Bloomfield: Disorganization. Anybody who is unclean in their work and (things like) like dirty jackets. Not tasting. If you are in a kitchen, you have to taste.

RH: What do you miss most about home?

Bloomfield: I miss my friends and having the time to hang out with them, drink beer in a pub or go home and relax. When you run a restaurant, you kind of lose that because have a huge responsibility for upkeep and running the place well.

ALL ENGLISH: Breakfast at the Ace Hotel is a departure from the ho-hum continental.

As for food, I miss plaice, a flat fish that is a bit like flounder. I miss getting fish with heads on. That way, you can see what it's like — whether it's fresh.

RH: So with a new restaurant, it sounds like your days are a bit hectic.

Bloomfield: I'm pretty much always working. You have to work out the kinks and sometimes it takes a long time to do that and get a crew who you're happy with and who are happy with you. Chefs work hard — that's just a rule. If you want to be a chef and don't like to work a lot, you might as well not go into it.

RH: You do manage to get away occasionally, though. We hear you were in Mongolia recently. How was that?

Bloomfield: I had a great time. We stayed in a yurt with a fireplace and just hung out, walked and fished and did some hunting. About 13 people in total went, including a handful of chefs. We also spent four days in Seoul, where we visited the fish market. It was fantastic.

RH: Outside of your own restaurants, where do you like to eat, and what are some of your favorite dishes?

SIMPLY SATISFYING: Chips and a lamb burger are among the pub offerings at The Breslin

Bloomfield: I like to eat in cheap places that serve spicy noodles, Vietnamese, Japanese. You can eat dim sum for $8 in Chinatown and come out stuffed and happy.

RH: What's your favorite new ingredient?

Bloomfield: I just found a new pork product from Montreal: milk-fed pigs that are 10 weeks old, They range around 50 pounds, and they're sweet and delicious.

RH: What kitchen tool, ingredient or piece of equipment do you consider indispensable?

Bloomfield: One is a sharp knife, which can help you can get through your jobs twice as fast. Also a pestle and mortar. My food is becoming more rustic, so I like using my hands and mashing up herbs and olive oil in a pestle and mortar and spreading the paste on meat.

RH: Anything that you think is used way too much?

Bloomfield: A lot of people are now using sous vide, which definitely has its place. For me, cooking on a line with my own instincts is more challenging. It's a matter of making sure every pigeon you cook is perfect or every piece of fish is cooked the same way to the same preciseness with 200 covers.

RH: Did you ever experiment with a dish and surprise yourself?

Bloomfield: I don't experiment very often. I play around, but it's usually tweaking dishes I've already done. I don't want to reinvent the wheel, just cook great food and have fun and hopefully people enjoy the food I cook. I like figuring things out.

RH: Many people probably know that you started out wanting to do police work. How did the 360-degree career shift happen?

Bloomfield: I was 16 and about to leave school. I sent in an application, but it was too late, so it was rejected. My two sisters were enrolled at a catering college, so I decided to do that until I turned 18 and reapply to the police force. But enjoyed myself so much that I stayed with it.

Every now and again have these moments where I wonder if I should to apply to the police force — and I did, before moving here. I was accepted, but it was not what I wanted — it was for the transport police. Then this great opportunity came along.

About the Author

Megan Rowe

Megan Rowe (@ontherowed) is an award-winning business writer and editor based in Cleveland. She has written extensively for foodservice, lodging and meetings publications and websites. Before launching her own editorial services firm, Rowe was a staff editor for Restaurant Hospitality for more than a decade. She is an avid cook, photography hobbyist and intrepid world traveler.

Subscribe to Our Newsletters
Get the latest breaking news in the industry, analysis, research, recipes, consumer trends, the latest products and more.

You May Also Like