God knows that MREs-Meals Ready to Eat-have taken on new prominence lately. No one says these go-anywhere, never-spoil items taste good, but they're still welcome by everyone from soldiers in Iraq to victims of Hurricanes Katrina and Rita along the Gulf Coast. In circumstances like these folks find themselves in, survival and sustenance are everything. They'll worry about taste and texture later. But they hold themselves to a higher standard in France, or at least at the 15-nation European ...

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