MAXED OUT : At Perbacco, chef Staffan Terje's kitchen has been busy from Day One. HANDS ON : Owner Umberto Gibin runs the front of the house at Perbacco. STREET BEAT : High profile restaurant neighbors—Tadich Grill and Aqua— haven't kept Perbacco from filling its 120-seat dining room. RUSTIC: Grilled Monterey squid was an instant signature starter at Perbacco. So was the pig's head terrine. Ask anyone in the restaurant business. The last thing San Francisco needed was ...

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