The issue of how far restaurants should go in accommodating patrons who bring very small children into high-end restaurants lit up the media—social and otherwise—last week after a couple showed up for their prepaid dinner ($475 for two) at chef Grant Achatz’s Alinea in Chicago with a crying baby in tow. Alinea has three Michelin stars and is ranked by experts as the sixth-best restaurant in the world. Although some dubbed the incident a yuppie crisis relevant only to ...

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