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Georgia chefs Hugh Acheson and Steven Satterfield to keep restaurants closed to public during coronavirus pandemic despite being allowed to reopen on Monday

The restaurateurs say viral infections haven’t peaked, and neither they nor their customers are ready

Bret Thorn, Senior Food Editor

April 24, 2020

4 Min Read
Miller-Union-Dining-Room-credit-David-Naugle.jpg
Miller Union's dining roomDavid Naugle

Restaurants in Georgia have gotten the go-ahead to reopen their dining rooms starting Monday, April 27 — with numerous restrictions in place to help prevent the spread of the coronavirus — but many of them are choosing to stay closed for the safety of their staff and customers, according to local chefs.

“A lot of our opinions on the topic is it’s just a little too soon,” said Hugh Acheson, who operates  5&10 in Athens, Ga., and Empire State South and By George in Atlanta.

Photo by Heidi Geldhauser

Miller-Union-chef-Steven-Satterfield.gifSteven Satterfield, left, chef and owner of Miller Union in Atlanta, agreed.

“It is definitely premature based on national guidelines,” he said. “We haven’t reached our peak [of COVID-19 cases] yet, and we haven’t plateaued, so there’s no logical reason to open up restaurants and bowling alleys and salons and all these other places,” all of which have been given the go-ahead to open. “And it creates a false sense of security, psychologically, to the citizens of Georgia to think that things are normalizing when we’re not quite there yet.”

Acheson said virtually none of the chefs he’s spoken to plan to reopen on Monday, and even if they did, they’d be hard-pressed to find customers.

Restaurants_Ready_770.jpg

“If I ask 100 chefs, pretty much everybody said they’re not opening up on Monday,” he said. “If I ask 100 customers, I’ll get one or two who are brazen enough to say, ‘yes, we’ll go out to eat,’ but the rest of them are not. They’re not ready.”

Related:Restaurant leadership through a global pandemic: 5 takeaways

But the potential to open puts people who need the money in a tough spot, Acheson said.

“It’s going to push economically desperate people to reopen and really jeopardize their crew,” he said.

That also holds true for workers at salons and tattoo parlors that can open, he said.

“Out of necessity they’re going to try and recoup some of the losses they’ve had in the last six weeks, but you’re putting them in a pretty dangerous position to be guinea pigs on our front line.”

He added that if those jobs are available but workers are too concerned to take them, they’d no longer be eligible for unemployment benefits.

Acheson and Satterfield both said that restaurants haven’t had time to develop the protocols and systems to open safely, given that Georgia governor Brian Kemp only announced the date for reopening on Monday, April 20, and didn’t issue the official guidance until late Thursday afternoon. The executive order has detailed instructions about how many guests are allowed in the restaurant at a time — 10 guests per 500 square feet of public space — and how to screen workers for illness, as well as more vague instructions such as “limit contact between wait staff and patrons,” and “where practical, consider a reservations-only business model or call-ahead seating.”

Related:National Restaurant Association releases coronavirus reopening guide for industry

Hugh_Acheson.gifAcheson, left, said he needed three weeks to put those systems in place.

“There’s a lot of anxiety and expectation and pressure about reopening,” Satterfield said, “and this very quick and unplanned, impulsive declaration is a real slap in the face to a lot of restaurateurs with little or no regard to what we do. He just doesn’t get it,” he said of Kemp.

Meanwhile, both chefs are working to feed people who need it.

Satterfield has been commissioned by Emory Healthcare in Atlanta to prepare 2,000 meals per week for healthcare workers, which has allowed him to keep on 25 members of his staff — he’d normally have a staff of 45, although he had 39 when restaurant dining rooms were ordered closed.

Acheson, meanwhile, is being underwritten by hunger relief organization World Central Kitchen to prepare meals for people in need out of 5&10 and Empire State South.

They’re making a total of about 7,000 meals each week for communities in need and front-line medical workers.

“People are being admitted to hospitals not just for COVID-19, but for signs of malnutrition and starvation,” Acheson said. “We have a pandemic on our hands. So my role is to play crisis responder and dispatcher and producer of nourishing meals to make sure people feel cared for and fed and sustained.”

For our most up-to-date coverage, visit the coronavirus homepage.

Learn lessons in leadership during a crisis from our panel of experts on Friday, May 1.

Contact Bret Thorn at [email protected] 

Follow him on Twitter: @foodwriterdiary

Click on the "Download" button to view the full Georgia guidance. The restaurant section begins on page 6. 

About the Author

Bret Thorn

Senior Food Editor, Nation's Restaurant News

Senior Food & Beverage Editor

Bret Thorn is senior food & beverage editor for Nation’s Restaurant News and Restaurant Hospitality for Informa’s Restaurants and Food Group, with responsibility for spotting and reporting on food and beverage trends across the country for both publications as well as guiding overall F&B coverage. 

He is the host of a podcast, In the Kitchen with Bret Thorn, which features interviews with chefs, food & beverage authorities and other experts in foodservice operations.

From 2005 to 2008 he also wrote the Kitchen Dish column for The New York Sun, covering restaurant openings and chefs’ career moves in New York City.

He joined Nation’s Restaurant News in 1999 after spending about five years in Thailand, where he wrote articles about business, banking and finance as well as restaurant reviews and food columns for Manager magazine and Asia Times newspaper. He joined Restaurant Hospitality’s staff in 2016 while retaining his position at NRN. 

A magna cum laude graduate of Tufts University in Medford, Mass., with a bachelor’s degree in history, and a member of Phi Beta Kappa, Thorn also studied traditional French cooking at Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine in Paris. He spent his junior year of college in China, studying Chinese language, history and culture for a semester each at Nanjing University and Beijing University. While in Beijing, he also worked for ABC News during the protests and ultimate crackdown in and around Tiananmen Square in 1989.

Thorn’s monthly column in Nation’s Restaurant News won the 2006 Jesse H. Neal National Business Journalism Award for best staff-written editorial or opinion column.

He served as president of the International Foodservice Editorial Council, or IFEC, in 2005.

Thorn wrote the entry on comfort food in the Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, 2nd edition, published in 2012. He also wrote a history of plated desserts for the Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets, published in 2015.

He was inducted into the Disciples d’Escoffier in 2014.

A Colorado native originally from Denver, Thorn lives in Brooklyn, N.Y.

Bret Thorn’s areas of expertise include food and beverage trends in restaurants, French cuisine, the cuisines of Asia in general and Thailand in particular, restaurant operations and service trends. 

Bret Thorn’s Experience: 

Nation’s Restaurant News, food & beverage editor, 1999-Present
New York Sun, columnist, 2005-2008 
Asia Times, sub editor, 1995-1997
Manager magazine, senior editor and restaurant critic, 1992-1997
ABC News, runner, May-July, 1989

Education:
Tufts University, BA in history, 1990
Peking University, studied Chinese language, spring, 1989
Nanjing University, studied Chinese language and culture, fall, 1988 
Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine, Cértificat Elémentaire, 1986

Email: [email protected]

Social Media:
LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/bret-thorn-468b663/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/bret.thorn.52
Twitter: @foodwriterdiary
Instagram: @foodwriterdiary

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