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Foie gras can be shipped to California once again

Federal judge rules that sales ban does not forbid possession or importation of the product

Bret Thorn, Senior Food Editor

July 15, 2020

4 Min Read
ducks.jpg
Foie gras, banned in California since 2012, can now be shipped into the state.Javarman3/iStock/Getty Images Plus

The battle over foie gras in California continues eight years after production and sale of the fatty poultry liver was banned in the state, as a district court ruled Tuesday that shipment of the delicacy from out of state is allowed.

Stephen Wilson, U.S. District Judge for California’s Central District, said in his judgment that, although products that are “the result of force feeding a bird for the purpose of enlarging the bird’s liver beyond normal size” cannot be sold in the state, according to the California Health and Safety Code enacted in 2012, that code doesn’t define what it means by “sale.”

“Rather than broadly determine how sale is defined in reference to [the health code], the Court’s focus is on whether the specific factual scenario presented by the Plaintiffs falls within the grasp of the regulation,” Wilson said in the ruling.

Those plaintiffs are American and Canadian producers of foie gras, which is made by engorging the livers of ducks or geese. The plaintiffs include Hudson Valley Foie Gras in New York State and an association of Canadian foie gras producers, who sued California claiming the foie gras ban had resulted in a loss of nearly one-third of their total sales.

Wilson said the health code, while banning the production and sale of foie gras, “is silent as to the possession, importation, or receipt of foie gras within California.”

Related:Foie gras case against Calif. chef Ken Frank and La Toque dismissed

He said that other aspects of the California Health & Safety Code, such as one that relates to pig products, “specifically states that ‘[f]or purposes of this section, a sale shall be deemed to occur at the location where the buyer takes physical possession of an item.’”

Since there was no such language in the foie gras ban, Wilson said he inferred that it was not intended “to be expansively read beyond the traditional understanding of ‘sold in California.’”

In other words, the foie gras can be purchased online and shipped to consumers in California, provided certain conditions are met.

Further, Wilson said that then-state senator John Burton, who authored the bill, and then-governor Arnold Schwarzenegger, who signed it into law, said that the code was not intended as a total ban on foie gras.

“Rather, both the legislative and executive branches indicated that the focus of the bill was to prevent the cruel practice of force-feeding within California.”

Foie gras producers have long-disputed the argument that force-feeding ducks and geese, a practice that dates back to ancient Egypt, is cruel.

Sale of foie gras in the state, including by restaurants, is still banned, but online and telephone sales are now permitted provided the following condtions are met:
·  The seller is located outside of California,

Related:NYC bans sale of foie gras

·  the foie gras being purchased is not in California at the time of sale,

·  the transaction is processed outside of California (via phone, fax, email, website, or

otherwise),

·  payment is received and processed outside of California, and

·  the foie gras is given to the purchaser or a third-party delivery service outside of California, and “[t]he shipping company [or purchaser] thereafter transports the product to the recipient designated by the purchaser,” even if the recipient is in California.

The Catskill Foie Gras Collective, a consortium of duck farmers in New York and Canada, hailed the ruling.

“We are gratified that the Court recognized that California’s misguided ban was never intended to apply to foie gras products from out‐of‐state producers that are shipped to happy consumers in California,” said Marcus Henley, vice president of Hudson Valley Foie Gras in Ferndale, N.Y.

Nikola Smatrakalev, general manager in Canada for French foie gras producer Rougié, noted that the date of the ruling was significant as foie gras is recognized by French law as part of the country’s cultural heritage.  

“This is a very welcome decision by the Court on Bastille Day [July 14], France’s National Day,” Smatrakalev said.

Sergio Saravia, president of Ferndale, N.Y., foie gras producer La Belle Farm, also made note of the timing of the ruling.

“This victory is symbolic that even in the most trying times, if we stand together, we will persevere,” he said.

Californians have long worked to skirt the ban of foie gras sales. Some restaurateurs have done so by giving it away, something Chicago chefs also did when foie gras was briefly banned in that city.

Ken Frank, chef-owner of La Toque in Napa, Calif., was sued by the Animal Legal Defense Fund for that practice, but the suit was dismissed last year.

Although the new ruling clarifies that Californians can take possession of and consume foie gras, it's still illegal for restaurants to sell it. 

The Catskill Foie Gras Collective is also fighting a law passed by the New York City Council last year that bans the sale of foie gras in the city. That law is scheduled to go into effect in 2022.

Contact Bret Thorn at [email protected] 

Follow him on Twitter: @foodwriterdiary

About the Author

Bret Thorn

Senior Food Editor, Nation's Restaurant News

Senior Food & Beverage Editor

Bret Thorn is senior food & beverage editor for Nation’s Restaurant News and Restaurant Hospitality for Informa’s Restaurants and Food Group, with responsibility for spotting and reporting on food and beverage trends across the country for both publications as well as guiding overall F&B coverage. 

He is the host of a podcast, In the Kitchen with Bret Thorn, which features interviews with chefs, food & beverage authorities and other experts in foodservice operations.

From 2005 to 2008 he also wrote the Kitchen Dish column for The New York Sun, covering restaurant openings and chefs’ career moves in New York City.

He joined Nation’s Restaurant News in 1999 after spending about five years in Thailand, where he wrote articles about business, banking and finance as well as restaurant reviews and food columns for Manager magazine and Asia Times newspaper. He joined Restaurant Hospitality’s staff in 2016 while retaining his position at NRN. 

A magna cum laude graduate of Tufts University in Medford, Mass., with a bachelor’s degree in history, and a member of Phi Beta Kappa, Thorn also studied traditional French cooking at Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine in Paris. He spent his junior year of college in China, studying Chinese language, history and culture for a semester each at Nanjing University and Beijing University. While in Beijing, he also worked for ABC News during the protests and ultimate crackdown in and around Tiananmen Square in 1989.

Thorn’s monthly column in Nation’s Restaurant News won the 2006 Jesse H. Neal National Business Journalism Award for best staff-written editorial or opinion column.

He served as president of the International Foodservice Editorial Council, or IFEC, in 2005.

Thorn wrote the entry on comfort food in the Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, 2nd edition, published in 2012. He also wrote a history of plated desserts for the Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets, published in 2015.

He was inducted into the Disciples d’Escoffier in 2014.

A Colorado native originally from Denver, Thorn lives in Brooklyn, N.Y.

Bret Thorn’s areas of expertise include food and beverage trends in restaurants, French cuisine, the cuisines of Asia in general and Thailand in particular, restaurant operations and service trends. 

Bret Thorn’s Experience: 

Nation’s Restaurant News, food & beverage editor, 1999-Present
New York Sun, columnist, 2005-2008 
Asia Times, sub editor, 1995-1997
Manager magazine, senior editor and restaurant critic, 1992-1997
ABC News, runner, May-July, 1989

Education:
Tufts University, BA in history, 1990
Peking University, studied Chinese language, spring, 1989
Nanjing University, studied Chinese language and culture, fall, 1988 
Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine, Cértificat Elémentaire, 1986

Email: [email protected]

Social Media:
LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/bret-thorn-468b663/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/bret.thorn.52
Twitter: @foodwriterdiary
Instagram: @foodwriterdiary

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