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The team behind Elvie’s takes over the historic Mayflower Cafe in Jackson, Miss.

Chef Hunter Evans has revamped the space and menus while continuing to serve a few favorites from the 89-year-old restaurant

Kevin Gray

November 1, 2024

4 Min Read
Interior of the Mayflower Cafe
The Mayflower Cafe lives on after new owners revamped and reopened the historic restaurant.Mayflower Cafe

Mayflower Cafe has been feeding diners in Jackson, Miss., since 1935. It took a brief hiatus when the third-generation owner decided to close in April of this year, but a local duo stepped in to take over and revamp the historic restaurant, and the Mayflower Cafe reopened in August.

Its new operators are chef Hunter Evans and managing partner Cody McCain, who also preside over Elvie’s, an all-day restaurant that opened in 2020 and serves seasonal ingredients that highlight Southern farmers. Evans was named a 2024 James Beard Restaurant & Chef Awards finalist for Best Chef: South for the effort, and Elvie’s made The New York Times’ 50 favorite restaurants list in 2022.

Mayflower Cafe once presided over downtown Jackson, drawing businesspeople, politicians, and a host of regulars. And with ice bins displaying fresh seafood in front, it was colloquially known as “Mississippi’s Original Seafood House.” The new owners are embracing what made Mayflower Cafe special while also bringing it up to modern-day standards and shining a spotlight on Jackson’s growing restaurant landscape.  

James Beard Awards finalist Hunter Evans

“Jackson has a vibrant culinary scene that’s continually evolving,” Evans said. “It’s exciting to see it becoming younger and bringing in fresh, innovative ideas. There’s so much to celebrate about Jackson’s restaurants and food culture.”

The remodeled restaurant features a few functional upgrades, like a completely updated kitchen and relocated bathrooms that are now more accessible for guests. A New Orleans-style oyster bar sits at the entrance, with ice wells crafted from refurbished seafood bins, and there’s a new bar where visitors can drink or grab a casual meal. Dining booths provide new seating options, and there’s now a private dining room for special outings and events.

Evans also tweaked the menu, but didn’t want to stray too far from the Mayflower’s signature dishes, like broiled seafood, deviled stuffed crabs, lemon pies, and the cafe’s famous comeback dressing, a mayonnaise-based sauce used for everything from fried onion rings to fried seafood.

A selection of foods at Mayflower Cafe

The menu begins with seafood gumbo, a Greek salad, and appetizers like shrimp cocktails, oysters, and crab cakes. Entrées move into redfish, catfish, and a whole flounder, plus seafood pasta and jumbo sea scallops.

Weekday lunches bring a rotating menu of blue-plate specials, like a fried pork chop, feta-brined fried chicken, and pot roast with mashed potatoes, creamed corn, and green beans.

The updated drinks list features craft cocktails and global wines, including several Greek labels as a nod to the Greek immigrants who established the restaurant in 1935.

Evans said he has a love for classic dishes, which is one of the many reasons he wanted to take over the Mayflower.

“Classics never go out of style, and without a deep understanding of foundational techniques in cooking, there’s really no path forward to true creativity,” he said. “It’s been so enjoyable to lean into traditional French recipes and give them a fresh twist with seafood from the Gulf of Mexico.”

A platter of crab claws

Evans added frog legs to the menu after the previous owner shared a memory of his father keeping live frogs up front in the ice well.

“It just felt right to include it, allowing us to put our own stamp on the new Mayflower Cafe,” he said. “Plus, if we were to get pushback, I can refer back to when they used to serve it and create a connection with our guests.”

Evans and McCain are focused on running their two restaurants, but they’re keeping an eye out for more opportunities.

“We’re constantly inspired with new ideas, especially when traveling out of state,” McCain said. “While we do have some plans on the distant horizon, we focus on being wise about our limits, taking on only what we can manage while maintaining the high standards we set for our restaurants.”

About the Author

Kevin Gray

Kevin Gray is a regional correspondent for Restaurant Hospitality, covering new concepts and restaurant operators in Texas and the south. Based in Dallas, he also writes about food, drinks and restaurants for the Dallas Morning News, InsideHook, Liquor.com, Thrillist and other publications. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram.

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