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Fancypants opens in Nashville with a casual take on fine-dining

The restaurant prioritizes fun and serves a “choose your own adventure”-style menu for diners to mix and match dishes

Kevin Gray

August 19, 2024

3 Min Read
A chef grates cheese over pasta at Fancypants.Photo Credit: Andrew Cebulka

Fancypants, the latest concept from Honest to Goodness Hospitality (Redheaded Stranger and Butcher & Bee) opened July 26 in East Nashville.

The new restaurant is on a self-described mission to “flip fine dining on its head” by offering a unique choose-your-own-adventure format and eschewing the typical upscale, stuffy experience for an environment that prioritizes fun. The founders want to serve food that surprises and delights guests, with a healthy dose of whimsy.

Fancypants is helmed by founder/partner Michael Shemtov, creative director/partner Jake Mogelso,n and chef/partner Bryan Weaver. The leadership team also includes chef de cuisine Joshua Homacki, executive pastry chef Katie Fair, and beverage director David Norris.

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When asked if diners are demanding more casual concepts, Shemtov said the group believes in trying to anticipate what customers want even before customers realize they want it.

He notes the famous quote attributed to Henry Ford: “If I had asked people what they wanted, they would have said faster horses.” But, unlike Ford’s also-famous mantra to build cars in any color, so long as it’s black, Shemtov stressed the need to be flexible and adapt to customer feedback.

“The spirit of our company is light-hearted,” Shemtov said. “We do not take ourselves too seriously, even as we take our craft seriously. This is the kind of fine dining restaurant that made sense for us — fun, vibrant, delicious and luxurious.”

Fancypants’ food menu is designed in a unique grid style, in which guests choose from a list of vegetable-forward dishes that can be mixed and matched, and shared or not.

The menu changes regularly to highlight seasonal ingredients from their farm partners. Sample dishes include crispy turnip noodle lasagna with parmesan foam, and potato chip-crusted chicken fried cauliflower with coconut gravy. The dessert menu puts a modern spin on classic dishes, with a side of nostalgia, seen in sweet treats like Funfetti cheesecake and an interactive sundae bar.

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David Norris, who also manages the beverage program at Butcher & Bee, curated a list of wines, beers, and cocktails for Fancypants. Similar to the food menu, the wine list is set up in a choose-your-own-adventure format and is broken into different price points to encourage guests to discover new varieties in their desired price range.  

Fancypants operates in a 2,200 square foot space that was once a Piggly Wiggly grocery store. Remnants of its past life are displayed in the restaurant, which features raw textures like aged concrete, exposed trusses and warm woods alongside bold colors of burgundy, emerald green and gold, and dozens of lamps and sconces.

The open kitchen keeps diners close to the action, especially those who are seated front-and-center at the chef’s counter. There’s also a communal bar, upholstered booths, and banquettes, and a covered veranda.

Shemtov said that he expects Honest to Goodness Hospitality to continue growing its presence in East Nashville and eventually move into other parts of the city.

The group also wants to add more talented people to its team at Butcher & Bee, as they look to grow that concept further.

“Our plan is to grow with our people,” he said. “We now have a few on our team, from beverage-focused to chefs, who are working towards developing concepts with us in the future.”

About the Author

Kevin Gray

Kevin Gray is a regional correspondent for Restaurant Hospitality, covering new concepts and restaurant operators in Texas and the south. Based in Dallas, he also writes about food, drinks and restaurants for the Dallas Morning News, InsideHook, Liquor.com, Thrillist and other publications. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram.

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