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Persimmon’s bittersweet symphony

Tara Fitzpatrick, Senior Editor

January 9, 2019

2 Min Read
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Mythologically speaking, persimmons are a symbol of enlightenment. Bitter and acrid (with ignorance) at first and maturing into a mellow sweet phase (of wisdom), these fruits are a metaphor for a life of learning and growing, or at least mellowing out. One variety, the Hachiya, has to be especially ripe before eating. The Fuyu can be eaten before it’s ripe for a taste of that bitterness.

Persimmon salad and whipped ricotta with dandelion, preserved cherries and crispy lentils

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Suzanne Goin, chef/co-owner, Tavern, Los Angeles

Price: $16

Tavern brought in the new year with a glamorous Casino Royale night four-course dinner that included a cool salad-and-cheese pairing, a beet and burrata salad with wild herbs, hazelnuts and black-truffle vinaigrette. Carrying that thought process over to the current menu, Suzanne Goin, who along with James Beard award-winning restaurateur Caroline Styne operates LA’s The Lucques Group, brought together persimmons with cloud-like ricotta and took it down to earth with the crunch of fried lentils. Dandelion greens and preserved cherries make up the dark-forest background flavors.

Pan-fried poussin, sunchokes, persimmons, chicory and shrimp butter

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Christopher Willis, chef, Pammy’s, Cambridge, Mass.

Price: $30

Pammy’s, named for co-owner and wife of Chef Chris, Pam Willis, is meant to be an extension of the couple’s living room in the collegiate streets of Cambridge, comfy and homey. But the restaurant’s air of sophistication can’t stay hidden for long, as dishes like this chicken plate showcase the chef’s chops, from his work at Rialto, Clio, Café Gray, Sfoglia and ABC Cocina. Here, chicory plays into persimmon’s bitter side and shrimp butter sweetens the deal.

Persimmon funnel cake

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Paul Ganica, director of food and beverage, Pacific Park, Santa Monica, Calif.

Price: $9

This isn’t your average carnival funnel cake. After all, most carney cakes don’t come with persimmons — or their own hashtag (#SMRestaurantWeek) — and most carnivals aren’t as picturesque as the iconic Santa Monica Pier. The hashtag represented Pacific Park’s invite for guests to share photos of this dessert, which was featured during Santa Monica Restaurant Week, a dining campaign by Santa Monica Travel & Tourism. This year, the whole week was centered around one ingredient: the persimmon. 

Persimmon pizza

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John Mahin, chef, Stella Barra Pizzeria, Santa Monica, Calif.

Price: $18.95

Another participant in Santa Monica Restaurant Week’s persimmon fest, Lettuce Entertain You’s artisanal pizza place Stella Barra, got their persimmon on with this LTO pizza. Persimmons get fired up and cozy with taleggio cheese, Fresno chili, a handful of fresh herbs and bacon from San Francisco Bay area veteran smoke shop Hobbs’ Applewood Smoked Meats. 

About the Author

Tara Fitzpatrick

Senior Editor, Informa Restaurant & Food Group

Tara Fitzpatrick is Food Management’s senior editor and a contributor to Restaurant Hospitality and Nation’s Restaurant News, creating editorial content for digital, print and events. Tara holds a bachelor of science degree from the School of Journalism and Mass Communications at Kent State University. Before joining Food Management in 2008, Tara was associate editor at National Association of College Stores in Oberlin, Ohio. Prior to that, Tara worked as a newspaper reporter in her hometown of Lorain, Ohio, where she lives now. Tara is a fan of food history, legends, lore, ghost stories, urban farming and old cookbooks. 

Tara Fitzpatrick’s areas of expertise include the onsite foodservice industry (K-12 schools, colleges and universities, healthcare and B&I), menu trends, sustainability in foodservice, senior dining, farm-to-table and innovation.

Tara Fitzpatrick is a frequent webinar and podcast host and has served on the board of directors for IFEC (International Food Editors Consortium).

Tara Fitzpatrick’s experience:

Senior Editor, Food Management (Feb 2008-present)

Associate Editor, National Association of College Stores (2005-2008)

Reporter, The Morning Journal (2002-2005)

LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/tara-fitzpatrick-4a08451/

Twitter: https://twitter.com/Tara_Fitzie

Insta: https://www.instagram.com/tarafitzie/

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/tara.y.fitzpatrick

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