The affogato is an exercise in well-executed simplicity: Gelato — usually vanilla or fior di latte — is scooped into a chilled glass and topped with hot espresso.

Chefs are embracing this Italian treat, and expanding on its potential, by swapping in flavored gelato or ice cream and experimenting with sauces and textural toppings. Critical to creating a successful affogato is to live up to the translation of the word, which means "drowned."