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What the Beard Award winners mean for America

The diversity of cuisines and winners shows how far we’ve come

Bret Thorn, Senior Food Editor

May 7, 2019

12 Slides
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Bret Thorn

Kwame Onwuachi, chef of Kith & Kin in Washington, D.C., won the James Beard Foundation’s Rising Star Chef award for his take on the Nigerian, Jamaican, Trinidadian and New Orleans Creole cuisine. Tom Cunanan of Bad Saint, also in D.C., won the award for best chef in the Mid-Atlantic for his Filipino-inspired cuisine. The winner of the best new restaurant award was Frenchette in New York City, and Zahav, serving modern Israeli cuisine, was named Outstanding Restaurant.

So it was a good year for our nation’s capital when it comes to Beard Awards, buoyed by Patrick O’Connell of the Inn at Little Washington in nearby Washington, Va., winning a lifetime achievement award, but the awards also highlighted what cuisines are on the rise in the United States.

Kith & Kin is the first Beard Award-winning restaurant to feature West African food, which is just starting to get some attention in this country. Bad Saint helped kick off the Filipino cuisine movement in the U.S. — a movement celebrated this weekend at Sunda, a “new Asian” restaurant in the Beard Awards’ host city of Chicago, with a traditional Filipino Kamayan banquet to celebrate its 10th anniversary.

Zahav spearheaded modern Israeli cuisine in the country, where it’s now at the avant-garde of a burgeoning of Middle Eastern cuisine in the country — also highlighted in Chicago with the opening last month of Galit restaurant by Zach Engel, who won the Rising Star award in 2017 for modern Israeli restaurant Shaya in New Orleans.

And Frenchette, serving French cuisine by Lee Hanson and Riad Nasr, who for years ran the kitchens at such Keith McNally restaurants as Balthazar, Pastis and Minetta Tavern, underscores the revival of French bistro cuisine.

The winners weren’t quite as diverse as last year, when the majority of individual winners (as opposed to restaurants), were women. Still, eight out of 19 winning individuals, including winning pairs, were women. Meanwhile, two of this year’s winners are black, Onwuachi and Mashama Bailey, chef of The Grey in Savannah, Ga., who was named best chef in the Southeast. That’s down from a record-breaking four black honorees last year, but still up from the usual number of black Beard Award winners, which is zero.

Asian Americans often make a strong showing at the Beard Awards, and this year was no exception, with three Korean Americans taking medals: Beverly Kim, who with husband Johnny Clark were named best chef in the Great Lakes region for their restaurant Parachute in Chicago; Ann Kim of Young Joni in Minneapolis who was named best chef of the Midwest, and Corey Lee, whose restaurant Benu in San Francisco was given the award for outstanding wine program.

South Asian American Vishwesh Bhatt won the award for best chef of the South for his restaurant Snackbar in Oxford, Miss.

“I am proud to be from Mississippi,” he told the audience.

From an LGBTQ perspective, wives Jody Williams and Rita Sodi were named best chefs in New York City for their restaurant Via Carota, and Ashley Christensen of Poole’s Diner in Raleigh, N.C., in accepting her award for outstanding chef of the year, told the audience she was looking forward to marrying her fiancée later this year.

Get a glimpse inside the awards ceremony.

Contact Bret Thorn at [email protected]

Follow him on Twitter: @foodwriterdiary

About the Author

Bret Thorn

Senior Food Editor, Nation's Restaurant News

Senior Food & Beverage Editor

Bret Thorn is senior food & beverage editor for Nation’s Restaurant News and Restaurant Hospitality for Informa’s Restaurants and Food Group, with responsibility for spotting and reporting on food and beverage trends across the country for both publications as well as guiding overall F&B coverage. 

He is the host of a podcast, In the Kitchen with Bret Thorn, which features interviews with chefs, food & beverage authorities and other experts in foodservice operations.

From 2005 to 2008 he also wrote the Kitchen Dish column for The New York Sun, covering restaurant openings and chefs’ career moves in New York City.

He joined Nation’s Restaurant News in 1999 after spending about five years in Thailand, where he wrote articles about business, banking and finance as well as restaurant reviews and food columns for Manager magazine and Asia Times newspaper. He joined Restaurant Hospitality’s staff in 2016 while retaining his position at NRN. 

A magna cum laude graduate of Tufts University in Medford, Mass., with a bachelor’s degree in history, and a member of Phi Beta Kappa, Thorn also studied traditional French cooking at Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine in Paris. He spent his junior year of college in China, studying Chinese language, history and culture for a semester each at Nanjing University and Beijing University. While in Beijing, he also worked for ABC News during the protests and ultimate crackdown in and around Tiananmen Square in 1989.

Thorn’s monthly column in Nation’s Restaurant News won the 2006 Jesse H. Neal National Business Journalism Award for best staff-written editorial or opinion column.

He served as president of the International Foodservice Editorial Council, or IFEC, in 2005.

Thorn wrote the entry on comfort food in the Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, 2nd edition, published in 2012. He also wrote a history of plated desserts for the Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets, published in 2015.

He was inducted into the Disciples d’Escoffier in 2014.

A Colorado native originally from Denver, Thorn lives in Brooklyn, N.Y.

Bret Thorn’s areas of expertise include food and beverage trends in restaurants, French cuisine, the cuisines of Asia in general and Thailand in particular, restaurant operations and service trends. 

Bret Thorn’s Experience: 

Nation’s Restaurant News, food & beverage editor, 1999-Present
New York Sun, columnist, 2005-2008 
Asia Times, sub editor, 1995-1997
Manager magazine, senior editor and restaurant critic, 1992-1997
ABC News, runner, May-July, 1989

Education:
Tufts University, BA in history, 1990
Peking University, studied Chinese language, spring, 1989
Nanjing University, studied Chinese language and culture, fall, 1988 
Le Cordon Bleu Ecole de Cuisine, Cértificat Elémentaire, 1986

Email: [email protected]

Social Media:
LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/bret-thorn-468b663/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/bret.thorn.52
Twitter: @foodwriterdiary
Instagram: @foodwriterdiary

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