The Italians have a basic cooking philosophy — buy the best ingredients possible and let them shine. It all sounds so simple, but it's not, particularly in the hands of young chefs who can't resist showing off. This point explains why there are not nearly enough extraordinary restaurants that feature authentic regional Italian cuisines. So I was overjoyed during a recent visit to New Orleans, where I came across 29-year-old chef Joshua Smith at a Mano. I ordered several ...

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