When Food & Wine named Paul Kahan one of America's Best Chefs in 1999, his restaurant Blackbird was already beginning to secure its legendary status in Chicago. The restaurant is so highly regarded, in fact, that when chefs from around the country visit Chicago, eating at Blackbird is often at the top of their list. So, it comes as a bit of a surprise that Kahan, who has never had a chef de cuisine at 10-year-old Blackbird, is finally loosening the reins. Just months ago, he hired ...

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