The reputations of some restaurants are larger than life: Any young chef good enough to land a gig at one of them can put a big, fat, gold star on his or her resume. Spiaggia, Chicago's landmark Italian restaurant, is one such place. Chef/partner Tony Mantuano, last year named "Best Chef" in the Midwest by the James Beard Foundation, has long had the pick of the litter, and he picked Missy Robbins to be his executive chef. A graduate of Georgetown University and Peter ...

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