Everyone is replaceable, so they say. But the truth is, the departure of a star chef can sink a ship. So what a great relief it was during a recent dinner at San Francisco's celebrated A16 to see it humming. The place was packed, the service was sharp and the rustic Italian food was great. Not good. Great. Nate Appleman, this year's James Beard Foundation Rising Star Chef, recently left A16 to conquer New York City, but not before leaving the kitchen in the able hands of Liza Shaw. ...

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