A lot of U.S. companies sell wood-burning pizza ovens, but every once in a while you hear of a young chef who insists on buying a handcrafted oven from Naples, the birthplace of pizzas. It's a clear indication that the chef is serious about what he or she is doing. Such is the case of chef James Lewis, whose passion for Italian food goes well beyond his Neapolitan pizza oven and the authentic, beautifully blistered thin-crust pizzas it produces. Bettola, the restaurant he owns in ...

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