Restaurant operators walk a fine line when they write their fall menus. They have to tweak the seasonal ingredients that customers love just enough to make them fresh and exciting, yet still familiar and comforting. The spotlight shines on fall favorites such as apples, hard squashes, pumpkin, brussels sprouts, chestnuts, wild mushrooms, dried fruit, cabbage, and all sorts of potatoes and other root vegetables. Customer tastes transition from the light salads and small plates of summertime ...

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