IF YOU SEE WHITE FISH with ricotta, yellowtail sashimi with jalapeño or Wagyu tacos dripping with spicy cilantro sauce on a menu today, most likely it's an homage to Nobu Matsuhisa. This food icon continues to spread the east-west fusion word at some two dozen restaurants across five continents and in cookbooks like Nobu West. Matsuhisa has craved the excitement of other countries from his early days: training in Japan at 18, moving to Peru, then on to Argentina, and later, off ...

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