The Cajun and Creole dishes that are the cornerstones of New Orleans cooking — gumbos, etouffees, jambalayas — are often delicious yet not uniformly so, especially when duplicated by non-Louisiana chefs. How come? There are as many ways to make them as there are people who try. The same goes for the town's traditional seafood concoctions — featuring shrimp, crab, speckled trout, pompano and other local delicacies — that are so satisfying when sampled in one of the Crescent City's many fine ...

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