You know you're in for a ride the minute you're seated at minibar, the six-seat, copperclad bar on the second floor of Cafè Atlantico in Washington, D.C. It's the diabolical twinkle in the eye of chef Katsuya Fukushima that tips you off. He challenges everything you know about eating with 20-plus single-or two-bite courses. Foie gras wrapped in cotton candy is insane, you think, until you pop it in your mouth and smile as Katsuya smiles back at you. The minibar concept was inspired by ...

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