New York City is home to America's most discerning restaurant critics, and it's hard to argue with their collective assessment of a restaurant's food, service and ambience. But architecture? It's not their long suit. When confronted with the rarity of an edgy, built-from-the-ground-up restaurant whose design clashes with the traditional New York City mold — i.e., narrow dining rooms open only to the sidewalk, usually not very many seats, nearly always retrofitted into an older building — ...

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