Bryan Miller has restored the luster and admirability of the Time's restaurant critic's column. After Craig Claiborne left the most powerful position in gastronomy, the column languished, first with a series of reporters on the staff who had no business writing about food, and then with Mimi Sheraton, who on the one hand raised food criticism to investigative journalism, but at the same time created a divisive and counter-productive atmosphere, slamming too many good restaurants and ...

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