10 to Watch in 2010
Creativity, outside-the-box thinking and a solid work ethic are all ingredients in a recipe for success. Many in this business have one of those angles covered, but the individuals we've spotlighted here have it all, and more. We expect big things this ye
Bill Kim
Chef/owner, Urban Belly and Belly Shack, Chicago
What's watchworthy? Following stretches at Charlie Trotter's, Susanna Foo, Bouley Bakery and finally, Chicago's Le Lan, Kim has been having some fun with his first two solo efforts, funky and wildly popular fast casual spots that celebrate street fare.
The lines have been out the door for Urban Belly, which raised the bar on Asian noodles and dumplings (e.g., lamb and brandy dumplings, pork belly ramen with clove-scented broth, rice cake noodles with chicken breast and mango in chili-spiked broth). Meanwhile, Belly Shack, which opened this past October, is a nod to Latin-Asian cuisine mirroring Kim's marriage (he's Korean; the missus is Puerto Rican). A Chicago Tribune critic called it “the raucous, tattooed, no-bull cousin” of Urban Belly. Think graffiti-covered walls, benches, cold somen noodle salad with olive-oil poached shrimp, orange supremes, jicama and tortilla chips or a Korean barbecue Kogi, with beef short rib and kimchi on pita, capped by bacon chocolate chip soft serve for dessert.
“The food makes you tilt your head and say, ‘Oh!’ That's a good thing,” the Tribune critic observed. Indeed.
Kim's two concepts hit just the right trend notes, with their casual vibe, wallet-friendly prices and compelling ethnic flavor profiles. We can't wait to see what's next.
Patrick Fahy
Pastry Chef, Blackbird, Chicago
What's watchworthy? After bouncing around quite a bit early in his career, Fahy he has gotten serious about pastry in the last few years. He recently took over one of the most-coveted jobs at a Chicago spot that is at the top of its game.
Fahy burst out of the gates three weeks after taking over Blackbird dessert duty with a whole new menu. A fan of seasonal desserts, one of his recent favorite concoctions was a cornbread pain perdu with candied pecans and maple sherbet, drizzled with aged Bliss maple syrup.
Fay, who spent two years at Chicago's Ritz-Carlton, returned to his hometown for the Blackbird spot following 13 months at Thomas Keller's French Laundry in Napa Valley. Out West, he managed to live car-free; as a result, he says, “I worked, read and practiced pastry. I slept and dreamt about pastry.” And the French Laundry experience? “It was boot camp for fine dining.”
After that, how could he not be ready for anything?
Pierre Gagnaire
Executive chef, Twist by Pierrre Gagnair, Mandarin Oriental, Las Vegas
What's watchworthy? This Michelin three-starred innovator is importing French fusion to Las Vegas.
Pierre Gagnaire isn't a fresh face; his career spans more than three decades, and he has restaurants in Paris, London, Tokyo, Seoul, Dubai and Hong Kong. But Twist, just opened at the Mandarin Oriental, is his first U.S. venture. His menu infuses the simplicity of classic French cuisine with a modern spin. To fully appreciate his sometimes radical creations, he says, the diner must have “intelligence of the senses,” as well as curiosity and freedom of spirit. He's sure to make a splash in the 23rd floor, Adam Tihany-designed space.
Gagnaire may be best known for creating the molecular gastronomic dining experience known as “Note ŕ Note” with the help of a chemist. It's the first dish made entirely of pure compounds. He separates the compounds, such as glucose and citric acid, and combines them with substances to alter their natural form and texture.
In a city overflowing with culinary star power, it will be interesting to see what Gagnaire cooks up.
Patricia Richards
Mixologist, Wynn and Encore Resorts, Las Vegas
What's watchworthy? She heads up bar operations at two prominent Las Vegas resorts; now she's won the Iron Bar Chef competition as well.
Richards is a rare thing in Las Vegas: a female who heads up a bar program. But not just any program. She controls what's poured at 25 bars in the luxury Wynn and Encore resorts. Besides a well-developed palate and a passion for creating cocktails, Richards is also a smart manager. She understands how to concoct drinks that will take advantage of the available inventory.
Richards, formerly a cook and bartender herself, recently finished first in the Iron Bar Chef competition, beating out five other contenders from across the country.
Matt Accarrino
Executive Chef, SPQR, San Francisco
What's watchworthy? Accarrino has a tough act to follow, taking over from a hot young chef, Nate Appleman, at one of San Francisco's hottest tickets, SPQR.
This CIA grad has paid his dues by working for a culinary who's-who, including Charlie Palmer, Todd English, Rick Moonen, Thomas Keller and Tom Colicchio. Now Matt Accarrino is looking forward to showing his stuff and taking full advantage of the Bay Area's well-rooted farm-to-table tradition at SPQR. It will be interesting to see what direction he chooses.
Accarrino's plan in the early stages was to transition from regional Roman cuisine to new Italian, creating seasonal fare with California inspiration. Within a month of taking over he had already rolled out his own menu. “Here more than anywhere else I've worked, I can follow where the products and inspiration take me,” he told eater.com. We'll be following, too.
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