In Tune With the Times
You can't get much bigger than being chef/
owner of an Esquire "Best New Restaurant," which Gordon Drysdale was in 2000
when he ran Gordon's House
of Fine Eats in San Francisco.
But he might surpass that mark
in his current role as chef/partner at Pizza Antica, a four-unit
Bay Area casual dining operation that features California-inspired Italian food, most particularly an ethereal thin-crust pizza.
The 50-year-old chef had a string of
high-profile culinary successes at
San Francisco's Bix, Buckeye Roadhouse and Caffe Museo. He and his
wife Susie live in Mill Valley, CA.
Whoa. Your fridge is maxed out!
We need all this. We have two
growing sons, ages six and eight.
They must really put it away.
Both boys eat what they have to
eat to get what they want to eat.
How did that work?
Its a tradeoff. They have to finish
the healthful items we give them
before they can have any treats.
Who oversees the trading off?
Susie. She's a stay-at-home
mom, an incredible luxury.
Where do you fit in?
Do you work the line at one of the
Antica units on the other nights?
Being on the line is a young
man's sport. But even as I move
away from being a working chef,
I still enjoy the action of a packed
restaurant. That's at night.
What's your typical day now?
A lot of my work life is spent
in a car, doing business by cell
phone.
And your home life?
I live the daddy lifestyle now.
That's why my fridge is full of
family food, instead of having
just beer, wine and condiments
like single chefs have.
So you've got a normal schedule?
Except for the late hours, yes.
I have the weekend off.
Your fellow chefs envy that.
I liked it better when I had a
working chef's schedule: Sundays and Mondays off.
How come?
With that setup, you can be out with your family and the rest of
the world on Sunday. But on Monday, the whole world is yours.
And now?
On weekends, every place I go
has a million people in line.
But it's better for your family.
True. We had our first son just
before opening House of Fine
Eats. We had great years there,
but I missed most of his learning
to walk and talk.
That's the life of a chef.
It is, but I had an epiphany
that there was more to life than
just the kitchen. House of Fine
Eats reflected how I lived life
then. Pizza Antica is who I am
now.
Which is...?
I've turned into an adult. Pizza
Antica is a place where you can
sip a good wine and eat a fine
meal while your little kid throws
food on the floor . . . and nobody cares.
It's going well?
I was the last partner on
board. We just opened our
fourth, in Sacramento. We think
we can grow to 12 units.
That mandolin tells us you're
still jamming in the all-chef
Back Burner Blues Band.
Absolutely. We've been together six years.
How'd you get started?
It was four chefs—Keith Luce,
Joey Altman, Scott Warner and
myself. Our first event was a
Meals on Wheels fundraiser.
And now?
We still get some interesting
gigs. It's a creative way to participate in fundraisers beyond
just cooking.
Count us in for your next show.
WHAT'S
CHILLIN':
Foster Farms Corn Dogs
Organic Ice Cream
Bars
Frozen Organic Vegetables
1 doz. Fine Chocolate
Bars
Gravenstein Apple Juice
Milk
Soymilk
Eggs
Jo's Natural
Peppermint Bark
Carrots
Flax Oil
Organic Orange Juice
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© 2009 Penton Media Inc.
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Features
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Rising Stars
- Sameh Wadi
Fridge Raid
- Dynamic Duo
Observer
- Fine Dining, But It's Flexible
Master Mixologist
- Jamie Boudreau
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