Don't Knock the Sox
He's spent his entire life
in the Midwest, yet Chicago native Todd Stein has
incorporated international influences into his cuisine wherever his
career has taken him. After graduating from Kendall Culinary
College and apprenticing at Chicago's legendary Gordon Restaurant,
he worked in France at Moulin de la Vierge. Then he returned to
Chicago to open some of that city's finest restaurants—mk,
Spruce and the Hudson Club. Next he headed for Cleveland, where he
developed and opened three of that town's hottest spots: Piccolo
Mondo, Sans Souci and Vivo. When mk chef/owner Michael Kornick
asked him to return to Chicago to be mk's executive chef, Stein
jumped at the chance.
Nice fridge. So what time does batting practice
start?
We're at US Cellular Field, home of the Chicago
White Sox. In this town, you root for either the Cubs or the
Sox.
And for you it's...?
I'm stuck as a Sox fan for
life.
Stuck? They're the reigning World Series champs. How bad can it be?
The Series win was sweet, particularly if you've been here through all the losing years, like I have.
We like your throwback jersey.
It's what they wore
in 1906. Last year was the first Series win for the Sox since
1917.
You'd better get rid of that big lobe of foie gras
soon.
I will. The Chicago foie gras ban goes into effect
tomorrow. We'll sell all this at mk tonight.
What has the foie gras ban meant for the
restaurant?
We've sold two or three times as much of it
since the ban was announced. For the last month, we've featured an
all-foie-gras tasting menu.
So the ban will hurt revenue?
Yes, but taking in a
little less money isn't the real problem.
What is?
Chicago is one of the great restaurant
cities, and I see the foie gras ban as reducing our prominence in
the food world.
Point taken. At least you'll have this nice-looking
prosciutto to work with.
Yes. It's from Iowa, and it's as
good as any Italian import.
Who makes it?
It's the La Quercia Americana brand.
They use organically fed Berkshire hogs.
Are these heirloom tomatoes local, too?
They're
from Nichols Farm in Marengo, IL. I serve them at home and at the
restaurant.
What's the home version?
Very simple: heirloom
tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, sea salt and a drizzle of olive oil.
A great summer salad.
Sounds delicious.
I made it just this past weekend
for myself and my girlfriend, Aubrey.
You two entertain much?
We do. She's an event
planner, so she sets the room and I do the cooking.
Nice. What do you serve your guests?
Good question.
We recently moved downtown into a 7th floor loft. We can't grill
now like we did at the old house.
How do you get around that?
Now it's lots of
roasting: rack of lamb, leg of lamb, whole chicken. The other night
I made a roasted pork tenderloin and a panzanella salad topped with
a poached egg.
Boy, you do eat well here.
We do. I've always
thought that if you're a chef you should make an effort at
home.
So after tomorrow you'll have to smuggle in the foie gras,
no?
It's a touchy subject, for a number of reasons. There
may be some legal action, maybe a temporary restraining order.
What's the plan?
Well...don't count foie gras out
in Chicago yet.
We won't. Nor the White Sox, either!
WHAT'S CHILLIN':Foie Gras |
PHOTOGRAPHY: RALF- FINN HESTOFT / REDUX PLUS
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© 2009 Penton Media Inc.
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In This Issue - December 2008
Features
- Play to Win
Editorial
- Get Off Your Butts, Round Two
Rising Stars
- Sameh Wadi
Fridge Raid
- Dynamic Duo
Observer
- Fine Dining, But It's Flexible
Master Mixologist
- Jamie Boudreau
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