Grandiose restaurants attract media attention in this country, but the most rewarding finds are often the quiet culinary treasures tucked away in obscure locations. Such is the case of Sumile (Soo-mee-lay), a little jewel that shines on a dark street in New York City's West Village. And the star of this latest game of hide-andseek is 30-year-old Colombianborn, New Jersey-raised chef Josh DeChellis.

He's among a new breed of chefs who, despite their classic French training, have successfully changed directions. In the case of DeChellis, he's cooking Japanese-inspired dishes while employing French techniques honed in the kitchens of David Bouley, Rocco DiSpirito and Jean-Georges Vongerichten.

In a scenario that resembled something you'd see in a reality television show, DeChellis auditioned for Sumile's owner—the singer of Dreams Come True, a Japanese pop act—and won the job. Now, by all reports, everyone wins when he's in the kitchen.

The New York Times described Sumile (Japanese for "little violet") as "a highly original and daring little restaurant." And Gourmet noted in its June issue: "What you notice . . . is the food, which springs from the fertile imagination of Josh DeChellis."