Painted on a lobby wall of Miami Beach's ultra cool Tides Hotel is a quote from Oscar Wilde: "Nothing is so dangerous as being modern. One is apt to grow old-fashioned quite suddenly." It's an astute quote and fearlessly displayed here at this Ocean Drive hotel, where the dècor is so enduringly classic and laid back that it comes off as intellectually sane in a city known for its excesses.

When a hotel has its head together this well, a restaurant within its confines must stay in step or risk appearing dizzy. Thanks to the cool and smart cooking style of executive chef Chris Tapper, 1220 at The Tides is clearly his Ginger to the hotel's Fred.

Tapper's arrival at The Tides was proceeded by gigs at some of the country's best restaurants, including Alison on Dominick, Bouley Bakery and Citarella in N.Y.C., and at nearby Mark's South Beach.

His contemporary American menu offers a world of brightly flavored choices, including yellow-tail snapper with bok choy, oyster mushrooms, edamame and sweet onion bonito.

Heading the kitchen at 1220 is "the job of my dreams," he says. Tapper is a dream chef worthy of a property like The Tides, and one with a talent even Oscar Wilde would appreciate.—