Back in February, Michael Cimarusti, who put L.A.'s Water Grill on the map, was featured on the cover of this magazine when he left to open Providence, another great seafood joint. Hearts sank when he motored out of Water Grill, but in his wake came Chef David LeFevre, 32, who has so impressed the critics that Water Grill continues to be mentioned in the same breath as New York City's Le Bernardin and San Francisco's Aqua. As a teen, the Wisconsin native studied to be an industrial ...

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