Joyce Goldstein, a legendary San Francisco culinary icon, commented during an interview years ago that she was disappointed by so many young chefs who would take on cuisines with which they had no real connection. “It's like putting on an ill-fitting jacket,” she said. “It just doesn't fit.” I was reminded of this interview when we recently crossed paths with Jeremiah Bacon, the executive chef of Carolina's, a southern-style bistro in Charleston, ...

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