Who doesn't like a big fancy meal every once in a while? But most of us, including chefs, often crave earthy comfort foods that simply make us happy. We asked Jeff Michaud, the executive chef of Osteria and Amis restaurants in Philadelphia, what makes him happy and, without hesitation, he said the rabbit stew his wife's grandmother cooked for them every Sunday when the couple lived in Bergamo, Italy. “She would cook it over a wood stove with the polenta pot right in the fire,” he said. “At ...

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