On New Year’s Eve, Charlie Trotter revealed his decision to close his eponymous restaurant after nearly 25 years in business. Trotter, who wants to travel and study philosophy and political theory, says he might return to the restaurant business some day. He dismisses the notion that the economy influenced his decision. Still, it’s hard to ignore the suggestion that formal, fussed-over concepts have lost some of their mojo—consider Trotter contemporary Per Se, which New ...

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