Basque cuisine dominates at the upscale Piperade and the less formal Bocadillos, chef Gerald Hirigoyen's two popular San Francisco restaurants. He arrived in the city by the bay nearly 30 years ago, and he hasn't looked back. Hirigoyen gave the world a peek behind the curtain in his third cookbook, Pintxos: Small Plates in the Basque Tradition (Ten Speed Press, $24.95), which explores one style of eating from the region. We recently chatted with the congenial chef about the state of Basque ...

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