Operators supreme the Sandoval brothers—Alfredo, Felipe and Patricio—were really on a roll in early 2011. They had successfully replicated Mercadito, their contemporary Mexican concept, four times in three different cities—New York, Miami and Chicago. Now they were looking to explore a different cuisine and a different style of restaurant in Chicago—maybe something Spanish. That’s what Ryan Poli was thinking about, too. The 35-year-old chef had knocked it ...

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