White tablecloths create a reputation, but burgers and beers pay the mortgage and college tuition. That’s the oversimplified take on the wave of prominent chefs and owners breaking away from fine dining in favor of more relaxed, less refined spinoffs. That, and the fact that more restaurant guests crave high-quality food without the high price tag and formality. The result has been an outpouring of inspired concepts. Typical of today’s enthusiasm for casual dining is Frank ...

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