Too often, Middle Eastern restaurants in this country are predictable or fall sadly short of any promise. So when a young chef like Micah Wexler comes along and approaches the cuisine with fresh eyes, you understand how these flavors can soar. The 29-year-old has drawn much attention at his new Los Angeles restaurant Mezze, named for the small plates traditions of countries such as Lebanon, Turkey, Syria and Morocco. Perhaps his edge comes from using the same high-quality West Coast produce ...

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