You can make an argument about the need to push the culinary envelope with foams, fried mayonnaise and edible menus. But even culinary cliff divers who seek out the next new gustatory experiment must reconnect with "real" food now and then. And there's no better place to do that than in a neighborhood joint that serve elbows-on-the-table grub. Perhaps nobody in America creates settings for this type of food better than Jimmy Bradley and Danny Abrams, who ...
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