New York City's Cru is an enophile's wet dream. So extensive is its 65,000-bottle wine list , that it's presented in three leatherbound books. So, you'd think that most who visit the Greenwich Village hot spot are coming foremost to swirl and sip, not eat. That might be the case if the kitchen was in the hands of anyone less talented than executive chef Shea Gallante. Consider this accolade from New York Times critic Frank Bruni: "If Cru is the devil's playground . . . (Chef Gallante) is . . ...

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