On the dessert menu at Varietal in New York City there's not a snowball's chance in hell you'll find anything your grandmother ever made. No, pastry chef Jordan Kahn is more interested in challenging you with desserts such as Wolfberry, which consists of lime sabayon, tonka bean, broken macaroons and katjap manis (an exotic Indonesian spice). It would be easy to dismiss such a creation as that of an unfocused 23-year-old, but eating is believing. New York Magazine praised ...

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