SEIJI WAKABAYASHIExecutive Chef, Ondine, Sausalito, California. Age: 38. Why he's rising: His cooking has helped Ondine reopen to success in 1999, about a decade after it closed. Background: "Chef Waka" emigrated to the U.S. from Japan in 1989. He's worked at West Channel Bar & Grill in San Pedro, Cafe Del Rey in Marina Del Rey, and Spago in West Hollywood, Calif. Cooking style: California fusion with Pacific Rim influences. Signature dishes: Lobster salad with chrysanthemum leaves, ...

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