When you walk into your neighborhood restaurant, you hope to find a chef such as Douglas Keane. Mind you, the neighborhood Keane cooks in is the very toney Napa Valley town of St Helena. But Keane's restaurant, Market, is, in essence, a neighborhood place. Keane's been anything but a neighborhood kind of cook. He apprenticed at The Ritz-Carlton in San Francisco, rose to assistant sous chef at Four Seasons restaurant in N.Y.C., and then did stints with Chef Gray Kunz at Lespinasse (also in ...

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