In New York City, where chefs are as plentiful as sardines at the Fulton Fish Market, it's hard to get noticed. But ever since 1982, when Kerry Heffernan graduated second in his class at the CIA, he's had a significant presence at such notable Manhattan restaurants as the Waldorf Astoria. Montrachet, Plaza Athenee, Restaurant Bouley, and--most recently--Mondrian. Despite his eye-catching talent, the 30 year old has toiled in the shadows of executive chefs--until now. In a matter of weeks he'll take the helm of One Fifth Avenue, the new seafood restaurant of Jerry Kretchmer and Alfred Portale of Gotham Bar & Grill. Portale, easily one of New York's best chefs, says Heffernan was an obvious choice. "Kerry's excellent training and background is similar to mine, and he has my passion for cooking in season with the finest ingredients. On top of all that, the guy grew up along the coast of Connecticut and Maine and is an avid fisherman. Who better to head a seafood restaurant?"