Don’t tell Jean-Robert de Cavel you can’t make it big in medium-sized market. The 46-year-old native of Roubaix, France, came to the U.S. at age 26 to be executive chef at Le Régence at the Hôtel Plaza Athénée in New York City, where he immediately earned three stars from the New York Times. He moved to Cincinnati in 1993 to become chef de cuisine at the much-honored Maisonette, leaving in 2001 to open his own French fine-dining palace, Jean-Robert at Pigall’s. Its success led him to open ...

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