When you consider that N.Y.C. is the most competitive restaurant market in the nation, you’d think that operators there would be on their toes more than most. Really bad restaurants don’t survive long in that environment. Yet, poor service is the number one complaint there and around the country. I feel the pain . . . often. Eight of us from the magazine recently visited a new Mexican restaurant in downtown Cleveland. I called to make a reservation. “We don’t take reservations,” I was ...

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