You can’t beat an authentic tapas spot like Jose Andres’ Jaleo in Washington, where the Spanish chef and his kitchen wizards work wonders each night for an adoring crowd of food-obsessed patrons. The same goes for those even-more upscale places where multicourse tasting menus cause a lengthy parade of one- or two-bite dishes to appear at each customer’s table. Thomas Keller’s Per Se and the French Laundry, Grant Achatz’s Alinea, Charlie Trotter’s: in the right hands, at the right price ...

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