Michael Ruhlman FARM LIFE: Berkshire hogs (top); free-ranging sheep and lamb (bottom). I've recently been reacquainted with a lamb farmer in Pennsylvania I wrote about nearly 10 years ago for The French Laundry Cookbook because of his efforts to bring his very carefully raised lamb, once available only to a few restaurant chefs (such as Thomas Keller, whom he is partnering with here), to the retail market. As a writer who spends a lot of time in professional kitchens but who ...

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