OLD SCHOOL: Nobody does braised dishes like Boulud. We understand why most contemporary cooks are quick to classify braising as an old-school technique that lost its relevance a long time ago. Few chefs bother to menu these gently simmered dishes anymore, and even a master of the art like John Hogan in Chicago chooses to downplay them in favor of straightforward steakhouse fare at his current job at Keefer's. It sometimes seems like braising is a dying art, kept alive by a handful ...
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