RIGHT LIGHT:A dramatic setting for Spiaggia. GET A GLOW ON: The dining room at the Mansion on Turtle Creek in Dallas. Noel Coward once said that 95 percent of romance is good lighting. By which he decidedly did not mean near darkness. A romantic evening in one’s house or apartment is not in any way the same thing as at a restaurant, where very low lighting can suck all the life out of a room. Indeed, the dreariest, least romantic restaurants in the world are low lit. I cannot ...

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